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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.